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The Strong Watchman

Monthly Tips

We're past the winter solstice now, and you know what that means: the days will start growing longer as we work our way toward spring. Although it's still deep winter, the light's starting to glimmer at the end of the tunnel. Here's what you need to think about doing in the weeks to come: Sow seeds of perennials for greenhouse flowering. Sow early tomatoes, dwarf French beans, leeks, and onions. Force spring bulbs such as early tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, crocuses, and snowdrops in a cool greenhouse. Cut back poinsettias that have finished flowering. Maintain an effective balance between heating, ventilating, and watering. Check your plants for any signs of pests or diseases. Flowers to sow now for spring flowering include: Annual baby's breath (April bloom) Hyacinth flowered candytuft (May bloom) Impatiens  (continuous bloom, starting May/June) Larkspur (June bloom)

One of the greatest things about having a greenhouse is that it gives you the opportunity to start seedlings well in advance of the growing season, as long as you take a few precautions with heating and lighting. Whether you ultimately end up moving them outside to an in-ground garden or containers, or even indoors as houseplants, you can start your seeds almost any time of the year. One you've decided what to grow, your first task is to determine their basic requirements: water, light, sun, temperature, and consequently where they'll reside in the greenhouse. Before you start, be sure to read the seed packet label thoroughly; if you're uncertain about anything, do a little research or contact a master gardener or your local agricultural extension office for clarification. The next step is to gather the flats, planters, egg cartons, or whatever containers you're using to start your seedlings, along with the appropriate labels. Sterilize all used containers, flats, and tools, and label the containers with the type of seed and date planted. Meanwhile, soak the seeds in warm water overnight to speed germination. Next, fill the containers with fresh potting medium and mulch the top of the soil with a thin layer of perlite. Then plant your seeds per the package instructions, and immediately water them thoroughly with warm water. If you're planting in small containers, put them in shallow container holders to make it easier to handle and move them. Seeds require darkness, moisture and heat to germinate, so keep them in a dark area until they do. Most seeds germinate best at a constant temperature between 65° F to 75°F. If they need more warmth, a soil heating cable or seedling propagation mat may be a good idea. Keep in mind, however, that they'll get some heat from the grow lights. You might need to have a fan going for some of the time, to ensure good air circulation and prevent damping off. In any case, be sure to keep your seedlings well-watered, but not soaked; a fine mist sprayer will do an excellent job. DO NOT LET THEM DRY OUT. You can reduce evaporation and maintain humidity by covering your seedlings with a dome; a cold frame can be ideal for protecting your seeds as they germinate and grow. Capillary matting is also a great aid. As soon as you see sprouts, take the plastic covering off or prop open the edge of the cold frame. When the seedlings are touching their neighbors, it's time to transplant.

Q & A:

Fertilizing Seeds Q. Do I need to fertilize the potting medium I plant my seeds in? A. No; in fact, it's best not to. Seeds have enough food stored inside, so they need only water when first planted; no fertilizer is required until they become seedlings. At that point, a regular fertilization program is important for proper plant growth. To determine the best fertilizer and fertilizer ratio for your particular seedlings and soil conditions, it's best to consult a master gardener or your local agricultural extension office.